Why are Gucci, Chanel, Hermes so eager to support Korean cultural ...

Royal tables and cushions, reproduced by Hermès as part of its project to recreate palace hall furnishings, are now on display in the king's workspace at Gyeongbok Palace. Courtesy of the Cultural Heritage Administration

Gucci, Chanel and other global luxury brands are increasingly turning their attention to Korea's cultural heritage, rich with tradition and history. They frame these initiatives as social contributions but are driven by strategic motivations.

The underlying intent is to leverage the historical and aesthetic attributes of humanity's cultural heritage to enhance the identity of high-end luxury brands.

Gucci has taken the lead in a significant cultural project at Gyeongbokgung Palace, with Gyotaejeon Hall, the queen's residence, soon to feature reproduced mural paintings thanks to the Italian brand's support.

In 2022, Gucci signed a social contribution agreement with the Cultural Heritage Administration (CHA) and has been working on these replicas, aiming to unveil them at the end of the year.

At the same time, since 2022, the French brand Chanel has annually selected and exhibited artisans who possess noteworthy traditional craft skills in the fields of cultural and artistic heritage from various countries.

The Gucci Cruise Fashion Show is underway in May, 2023, at Geunjeongjeon Hall in Gyeongbok Palace, the central building where Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) royal ceremonies and receptions for foreign envoys took place. Joint Press Corps

Tools for luxury brand differentiation

The affection luxury brands show for cultural heritage isn't limited to tangible assets like palaces and paintings.

Hermès, while creating replicas of palace furnishings, has collaborated with national intangible heritage artisans specializing in woodwork, metal decoration, lacquerware, inlay and traditional knot-making.

Such endeavors are even more active abroad. When the Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris was severely damaged by fire in 2019, LVMH, the French group owning brands like Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior and Fendi, donated 200 million euros.

Similarly, Kering, the French group owning brands such as Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Saint Laurent, contributed 100 million euros.

A view of the men's luxury store on the sixth floor of the new wing at Shinsegae Department Store Gangnam, home to the largest men's luxury goods section in the country. Courtesy of Shinsegae Department Store

Tradition and artistry

The concepts of "tradition" and "crafts" serve as key differentiators for luxury brands.

"European brands view 'tradition' and 'artistry' as criteria that separate luxury goods from ordinary products. By supporting cultural heritage from various countries, these brands reinforce their identity," said Jeon Hyung-yeon, a professor of humanities content studies at Mokpo National University.

Jeon said that the recent increase in social contribution activities in Korea by European brands reflects the expansion of the Asian market, with Korea, China and Japan accounting for over 50 percent of luxury goods consumption.

This trend aligns with the newly implemented National Heritage Basic Law, which has restructured the national heritage (formerly cultural property) management system.

The core of the new system is to create new value and make heritage more accessible to the public rather than merely preserving and managing it in its original form.

Jung Sang-chul, dean of the Graduate School of Future Cultural Heritage at Korea National University of Cultural Heritage, said, "In the past paradigm of heritage preservation, everything was left to the public sector. Collaborating with high-end private brands can expand promotional opportunities abroad and enhance the value of heritage."

The interior of Gyotaejeon Hall in Gyeongbok Palace, where the reproduced paintings funded by Gucci's palace restoration project, will be displayed. Courtesy of the Cultural Heritage Administration

Concerns linger

However, there are concerns that cultural heritage might become a promotional tool for exclusive brands.

A notable example is the Gucci fashion show held at Gyeongbok Palace's Geunjeongjeon Hall last year.

"Opening pre-modern cultural heritage sites like palaces to the public was meant to dismantle the privileges of the old royal dynasties and allow all democratic citizens to share in this heritage," said Choi Yeol, an art historian and former member of the Cultural Heritage Committee. "Collaborating with brands that are enjoyed only by a specific capitalist class requires a critical perspective, as it may run counter to the spirit of the times."

In the meantime, the French brand Hermès, as part of a Joseon palace restoration project initiated through a 2015 partnership with the CHA, has recreated furnishings and decorations for Deoksugung's structures.

This year, they are working on Gyeongbok Palace's halls, scheduled for the latter half of the year.

This article from the Hankook Ilbo, sister publication of The Korea times, is translated by generative AI and edited by The Korea Times.